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FEATURE: CHINATOWN LA
In the first of two features on new art centres in the States, Malik Gaines explores Los Angeles’s expansive Chinatown district.

At this past February’s Armory Show in New York City, Steve Hanson and Giovanni Intra manned an active booth. As directors of China Art Objects Gallery in Los Angeles they provided plenty of their artists’ works for the shopping throngs. They offered piles of Jonathan Pylypchuk collages and little David Korty watercolours. They displayed an endlessly looping Jonathan Horowitz video (The Soul of Tammi Terrell, 2001) and a couple of replicated broken walls made by Eric Wesley (Ass Holes, 2001). Bolstered by two favourable sentences from the New York Times, JP Munro’s oil portrait of an ominously decaying Napoleonic figure, Permanent Death (2002), created a little rupture along the pathway which stretched the length of the pier. The guys from China Art Objects seemed to be complete professionals.

For Hanson and Intra, not to mention the Los Angeles’ gallery scene in general, all of this is in stark contrast to 1997. Then, Hanson was playing guitar in the band Mithter, while Intra was a young critic finishing his master’s degree at the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena. With partners Peter Kim and Amy Yao (both of whom have left the gallery in the intervening years), the pair decided to open a project space. In search of cheap rents, they stumbled upon Chung King Road, a pedestrian market place dotted with Chinese antique shops, gift stores, and one small market. Noticing that one-third of the store-fronts were unoccupied, the would-be gallerists began talking to some of the local proprietors and found support for their idea. Shortly thereafter, they opened China Art Objects in a space at the southwest end of the road, choosing to keep the name already posted on the sign above the front window. The gallery focused on young artists, many of whom were from Los Angeles, and the shows quickly began to draw attention.





Today, China Art Objects is somewhat analogous to an anchor in a shopping mall, one of those big-name department stores that holds down one end of the establishment and keeps traffic flowing. Chung King Road is now lined with galleries, studio spaces and retail boutiques, mixed in with the old-fashioned shops and little jewellery stores operated by the Chinese-Americans who had been the sole occupants of this neighbourhood since the 1950s. Some members of this older community still live in the second storey residences above the store-fronts. The original and new tenants together form a schizophrenic culture, one in which several languages are spoken and multiple generations interact on a daily basis. Old couples work behind their shop-counters as children run giddily up and down Chung King Road, bouncing into hip grad-students or gaggles of collectors who have just swung by from downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art, a short drive away.
I recently found artists Jonathan Pylypchuk and Kim Fisher chit-chatting in a smoky office above China Art Objects’ main exhibition space. Both show with the gallery, and both make work that reflects the formal transmutations endemic to LA art.
Pylypchuk, who recently received his master’s degree from UCLA, creates tender scenes of pitiful ennui, using scraps of fabric, bits of wood and a toothpick here and there, all arranged on painted surfaces that are both glittery and messy. The forms are compiled into crude, puppet-like characters who live out simple relationships.

Their interplay of dialogue, drawn with scrappy handwriting on the surface of what could only loosely be called a painting, amounts to a surprisingly clever articulation of a young American’s bourgeois pathos. Fisher, who completed her graduate study at Otis College, has, in consecutive China Art Objects solo shows, displayed big, bold paintings which fold the notion of a monochrome in on itself. With a nearly maniacal precision, Fisher controls her perfectly flat surface, often leaving portions of linen exposed, creating the sense that the paint is clothing the canvas. Finally, she adds an element of fashion-obsession to the conflux by embedding a couture logo in the colour-field or silkscreening a diamond watch directly onto the painting.
I asked Pylypchuk and Fisher what they enjoy about showing work in Chinatown.
While Pylypchuk only refers to the convenient market across the way, Fisher is feeling slightly more loquacious. ‘Everyone here is enthusiastic,’ she responds thoughtfully, ‘and that’s what the art world needs: more enthusiasm’. In this spirit, Black Dragon Society, Diannepruess, Goldman Tevis, Inmo Gallery and Lord Mori Gallery are among those who have similarly set up shop on Chung King Road. In the beginning, Chinatown openings could be characterised as a small group of artists, like Pylypchuk and Fisher, drinking beer out of a keg in both revelry and commiseration. Today, these conjunctive events are street scenes, peopled by occasional celebrities and other types from nearby Hollywood, regular Angelenos who are simply looking for something to do on a weekend, and LA’s top collectors, gallerists and artists. Above all of these eager co-minglers, festive little coloured lanterns light the pathway between bustling rooms full of art and commerce.

‘We put up the lights and changed the lanterns,’ Mary Goldman, co-director of Goldman Tevis tells me while resting upon a white, rounded band-stand made by Jessica Bronson. At the recent opening of a group show here, the Dick Slessig Trio played music for hours atop this sculptural form. Explaining the paper lanterns, Goldman recalls: ‘There were lights here but they were broken and all of the lanterns had fallen down. I had a scissor-lift for an installation one day. I just came out and all of the shop-owners got together and gave me lanterns and bulbs, then all of the other galleries came out to help. It was sort of a spontaneous, joint improvement of the street.’

Goldman and partner John Tevis opened their gallery in 2000, directly across the pathway from China Art Objects. Previously, Goldman was working as a private curator in New York while Tevis was doing investment banking at Deutsche Bank and running a project space out of his home in Long Island City. The pair, who had gone to college together, decided to open a gallery and, within two months, had moved to Los Angeles.

‘The rents started out being really ridiculously low,’ admits Goldman. ‘Ultimately it financially made it possible for more experimentation. You could do shows that weren’t all about selling.’ Goldman Tevis opened with LA artist Andrea Bowers; they showed a video work and intricate pencil drawings which calibrated the prismatic refractions of pop-culture celebrity, a category which is of continued interest to young artists, and which has particular resonance within Los Angeles. Perhaps this investigation was prescient of things to come, as the Chinatown scene has become the subject of more feature articles than one would expect a bunch of quasi-experimental galleries to attract. Discussions of the hot-spot have unfolded on the pages of several high-end, mainstream magazines, as well as in the local press. The attention from the media has only increased Chung King Road’s prominence, lending a nearly instant reputability to galleries that are still practically fledglings, and fostering the influx of new tenants to the area.

‘I’m surprised at how quickly it’s grown,’ admits Goldman, referring simultaneously to the relative prosperity of Chung King Road itself and the buzz it has generated. ‘I didn’t expect how popular it became to happen as quickly as it did. The press have been very generous.’ Regardless of celebrity, the gallery’s viability has allowed some compelling new work to be shown in Los Angeles, from the fractured narratives and collaged realities of New York photographer Miranda Lichtenstein, to the delicately laced and totally unwearable under-garments made by LA artist Josh Blackwell.

As in any case of a predominantly middle-class Caucasian sector claiming an under-developed inner-city neighbourhood, there are cultural difficulties which linger somewhere between gentrification and colonisation. Some suggest that the new gallerists are actively participating with the already established business community, rather than in spite of it. Mary Goldman insists that Chinatown remains 90% Chinese-American and that business leaders have welcomed the redirection of visitors to this long-neglected area. Gim Fong, the seventy-one year old owner and proprietor of Fong’s Oriental Works of Art, which is a couple of doors down from China Art Objects, agrees. When asked if business has improved recently because of the prominence of his newer neighbours, he says, ‘It picked up a little bit because people have finally noticed Chinatown. It brings a lot of people who have never seen us before. Now we have a different group of people here, we have a mixed group, not all Chinese.’

Fong, a master artisan known for his delicate miniatures, points to a yellowing picture of himself in uniform secured high above his cash register and recalls his first days on Chung King Road. ‘I was drafted in 1952,’ he remembers, ‘that’s the year we started the store.’ Then, it was he and his brothers and sisters who ran the business, members of LA’s first generation of Chinese-American kids to grow up in old China City, and later, what is now Chinatown. Chung King Road was then a satellite of the main market place, a larger pedestrian shopping centre on the other side of Hill Avenue, which today is in a similar state of disrepair, partial occupancy and some renewed interest. Fong describes the 1950s as the hey-day of the area, with shoppers bustling about and a thriving culture dominated by Chinese-Americans and recent immigrants. As was the case all over America, the race riots of the 1960s left urban centres isolated and neglected, as residents and visitors alike were drawn to the relative safety of the suburbs. Like other cities that underwent this transformation, Los Angeles was left with a desolate downtown and Chung King Road never fully recovered.

Fong admits that the area is experiencing a recovery, though he is uncertain about the future of the Chinese-owned businesses, many of which have been there as long as he has. ‘The first generation, they’re all gone. There are only a few original owners that are still here, most of them will die out and that’s it.’ Though these are most often family businesses, Fong says they will not likely be passed down to another generation. Fong admits, as he stands among his immense treasure of little jade frogs, gold monkeys, tiny decorated pavilions and wooden boxes, ‘when I leave this is going to be closed. My kids aren’t going to work for peanuts. I sent them to school so they won’t do this. That’s progress.’ I asked Fong how the older generation feels about the art scene that dominates the street’s life with noisy evening openings and daytime gallery hopping. ‘Some of the older generation are not that happy about it,’ he concedes hesitantly. ‘They can’t speak their language, they don’t have the customs, and they get kind of freaked out when they see those guys with all of this make-up on. It’s culture shock. But the younger generation understands. And that’s what’s coming in here, the younger generation.’

‘They want to do this Artforum ad,’ says Diannepreuss gallery director Joel Mesler as he drags on a cigarette and shows me a typed page that is to be submitted to the magazine. ‘They want just the galleries in it but we included all of the other stores on the road.’ I talk to Mesler in an office behind an exhibition space containing several simple tree-house-like structures made by Austin Thomas, works that Mesler describes as ‘social sculpture’. As we talk, the artist herself is ‘using’ the work, reading a book while perched upon a high platform. Founded in 2000 with the backing of a European patron, Diannepreuss consistently shows work that is energetic and unexpected. Mesler, who soon plans to transform the gallery into an experimental store, believes there isn’t necessarily a standard mode of operation among this diverse group of exhibition spaces. ‘I think everyone is doing their own thing and everyone is at different levels. I would definitely say that the galleries are all taking previous models of what a gallery is, so in that sense, it would be product oriented,’ he says, commenting on the designation of ‘alternative’ that has been attributed to the Chinatown scene.

Indeed, the art galleries here have spawned an array of other kinds of spaces dealing with products in a number of ways. German clothing designers Loy and Ford set up their boutique of edgy downtown fashions a few doors down the road, and a new clothing store, Sling Ting, opened only recently next to Fong’s. Mesler also helps run The Paisley Vortex, an ad-hoc performance space located in the shopping centre on the other side of Hill Avenue, while China Art Objects’ Steve Hanson is working with artist Jorge Pardo on an eagerly anticipated bar in that same centre, scheduled to open in May. Long-time residents like Gim Fong may be pleased to see such a sustained interest in their old neighbourhood, but there remains a subtle sense of trepidation when it comes to the rapid thrust of progress. ‘I hope they’ll develop some other Chinese businesses that will help bring this area back up,’ admits Fong. ‘And I’d like to see more Chinese artists, they’re the ones who really need help.’

www.chinatownla.com, www.chinaartobjects.com,
www.inmogallery.com, www.lordmorigallery.com

Malik Gaines is a senior editor at Artext. He lives in LA, where he performs with his band, My Barbarian. This feature was researched in collaboration with Wen Wen Hsu

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